Hair conditioning in the curly method

Hair conditioning in the curly method

Conditioning the hair is a very important step in the curly method routine and should be performed by choosing the products suitable for your hair in order to avoid possible unwanted results (weight or dry hair for example).

In addition to choosing the appropriate products, it is very important to respect the time and method of application, for example it is important to know that masks and conditioners are usually applied on the lengths avoiding the roots. In this way the roots will not be weighed down by any conditioning ingredients that they do not actually need due to their low porosity or the simple fact that the roots do not need to be untangled by knots.

The conditioning products are divided into three categories on Curly Selection, based on their composition and use: conditioners, masks and leave-in.


Conditioner

The conditioners are designed to detangle the hair while providing shine, elasticity and fundamental thing to understand: close the cuticles.

Closing the cuticles is equivalent to ''sealing'' the moisturizing ingredients, emollients or any hydrolyzed proteins inside the hair that are contained in a mask or in a previously applied shampoo.

The conditioner is the product with the greatest detangling power compared to masks and leave-ins.

Need to be rinsed thoroughly.

Maschera

Masks are products with a denser consistency than a conditioner and also have a different function even if the effect may seem very similar at times.

The mask is applied before a conditioner when the cuticles are still open and the ingredients can penetrate inside the hair. Which could not happen if the cuticles were closed (i.e. after the conditioner).

The application time is much longer than a conditioner, it goes from a minimum of 10 minutes to a full hour, always remembering to respect the manufacturer's instructions.

Usually a mask, especially if it contains proteins, does not have a great detangling power like a conditioner.

Need to be rinsed thoroughly.

Leave-in

The leave-in, which from their own name suggests that they are products to be left on the hair, must be used after the mask and / or conditioner, before moving on to styling.

A leave-in generally tends to detangle the hair and closes the cuticles simulating the effect of a conditioner thanks to the presence of sealing ingredients. It also provides a certain hydration depending on its composition and how many moisturizing ingredients it contains.

It must not be rinsed: in some cases (depending on the composition) it can also be used instead of the conditioner after the mask and finally rinse it partially to obtain a sealing and detangling effect, while providing extra hydration.

Comparative Chart

The detangling and sealing power of a leave-in are closely linked to the nature of the ingredients contained in a product, for example behenamidopropyl dimethylamine is a recognized detangling ingredient and its presence in a specific formulation contributes significantly to increasing the detangling power.

Examples of conditioning in the curly method

If you used a clarifying shampoo:

1: Apply the mask (allow adequate time to allow entry into the hair) and rinse thoroughly.

2: Apply the conditioner (to seal and untangle) and rinse thoroughly.

3: Finally apply the leave-in with or without partial rinse.

The passage of the conditioner (2) can be skipped according to the leave-in you use and the need to untangle.

If you used a low-poo:

1: Apply the mask (allow adequate time to allow entry into the hair) and rinse thoroughly.

2: Apply the conditioner (to seal and untangle) and rinse thoroughly.

3: Finally apply the leave-in with or without partial rinse.

The passage of the conditioner (2) can be skipped according to the leave-in you use and the need to untangle.

Or:

1: Apply the conditioner (to seal and untangle) and rinse thoroughly.

2: Finally apply the leave-in with or without partial rinse.

If you used a co-wash:

1: Apply the conditioner (to seal and untangle) and rinse thoroughly.

2: Finally apply the leave-in with or without partial rinse.

The passage of the conditioner can be skipped (the co-wash is already a washing conditioner) and directly apply a leave-in with or without partial rinse.

Hydrolyzed proteins

Without going deeper into the topic, in reality it is enough for us to know that when we talk or write about hydrolyzed proteins we refer to components of proteins that are smaller than the proteins from which they derive.

Size is important because a protein is usually too large and cannot simulate a hair reconstruction, as smaller components can do.

These bricks bind to the hair by electrical affinity and fill the empty spaces due to the damage suffered over time by the hair.

The electrical bond that is created is not very strong but still sufficient to simulate a reconstruction of the hair and help to resume its original shape.

The content of hydrolyzed proteins in a balm is usually zero, the balms are not used to contain them with some exceptions of course. It could perhaps be said that the sealing action of a conditioner would not help hydrolyzed proteins to enter and bind to the hair since the cuticles are closing at the same time.

The hydrolyzed proteins that we can find in a mask are ideally the best to simulate a reconstruction of the stem since those contained in the leave-in have a greater film-forming function, they remain outside the stem, on the surface of the hair, by repairing external damage more than internal damage.

Finally it is important to remember that an excess of hydrolyzed proteins can have the undesirable effect of producing a dry and rough effect on hair, especially those with low porosity. We should always consider the compositions of the various products that will be used in the routine, to avoid having proteins both in the shampoo and in the mask and in the leave-in. Learning how to recognize proteins in the INCI and at what height of the list it is will give you an idea of ​​the possible result you will get.

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